I'm adding two new small plots in the woods this year that are connected by a clover "snake trail".
I originally thought I might get the tractor in there to mow and till, but given the wet conditions, the trouble to completely remove stumps, and the harm I could actually do with the tiller, I'm now just buzzing the trees off at ground level, intend to spray after green up and will ultimately have to practice no-till if possible (which may be the best anyways in the woods).
Would appreciate any pointers. These plots and trails get good sunlight (I cut the trees materially, especially on the southern sides) and will have clover, winter cereals and brassicas on a rotational basis. As far as clipping them, I'm thinking about possibly using a push mower unless it gets stable enough to ultimately use my tractor and bushog in there.
Appreciate your thoughts / tips on getting this going. Pulling soil samples as soon as I can to start making necessary ammendments.
To help with any further comments, I see on your other post that you are in southern Michigan. it looks to me that your snake trail, if that is what I saw in your video, is fine.
I, today, took down some trees in my plots. FWIW, I an in the northern lower peninsula, Lewiston. I am not particularly concerned with stumps since they are visible and I can avoid them. I think that the reduced competition is more important.
If you check the deerbuilder.com site, Pat explained that the difference in seed in different plots was because of sunlight.
I did finally get a disc to incorporate lime and fertilizer.
Previously, I used a landscape rake, that I see that you have, to "prepare" the ground. I now have a cultipacker and I think that is critical, especially for small seed.
I do not think that wet ground should be worked.
I am not a Roundup guy.
I think that timing, seed selection, amendments will be sufficient.
The rake will scuff up the ground. A following rain or cultipacking is better.
Who did the music on your intro video?
One of my plots
I cleared 2 quarter acre food plots last year. Soil tested similar to yours 4.9 pH so I put down lime and fertilized. Planted grains and greens with some extra forage radishes August 1st and couldn't have been happier with the results. Deer were in my plots like crazy as we're the turkeys. The key is planting something that will tolerate lower pH
Depending on your weather you might be able to get away with frost seeding if the area is clear of most debris. For myself, I sort of did little till/no-till planting on my area I cleared this past fall, an abandoned apple orchard. I started with my grapple on my 46hp kubota tractor and basically pushed all the underbrush, deadfalls and the hated multi flora rose out of the way to create an opening. Had to fell three trees too to open up the area to some sun. It was ridiculously rocky and had all kinds of crap laying around (sticks, multi flora rose root balls, barberry root balls, rocks etc) I used my garden mower spreader bumping and hopping everywhere and getting high centered a few times, and added lime and fertilizer, the I took my chain drag with my garden mower and dragged the chain all around the place to scarify the soil. I took my cultipacker roller and pulled it around too with my garden mower. I used my garden mower as much as possible because I was trying to be soft on the newly exposed soil and not compact the soil and roots where the apple trees were. I was really impressed how the inner sanctum grew in the area. I had mostly rape and some oats come up. No clover but it was only a fall seeding and limed only two months earlier(sil test showed a ph of 5.0). The deer totally hammered the area and it became a deer highway. I actually had to take out a few deer because I stared seeing more then I expected on my property and didn't want them to hammer my apple trees and rest of the property too much. I am always impressed how when mother nature has some of her soil exposed she always makes something grow to cover her scars. Dont stress it, mother nature always finds a way. Just help her with a little seed to grow what you want.
I'm just not familiar with no-till planting. Could use some pointers on getting this ground ready for seed. Clearing the trees now, then planning to spray gly once I see a sign of green-up, then maybe spray one more time, then maybe rake it a bit to loosen the dirt some, then seed and mow any dead vegetation standing to cover the seed to hold moisture? Or should I just mow the dead vegetation and rake a bit to loosen the soil, and then seed and pack it?
Depending on the size of the food plot, a push mower isn't the worst to get in there and cut, just make sure you can raise it high enough so you can ideally keep 6" of growth and no less, otherwise the saying is take half and leave half. Grandpa Ray Outdoors Inner Sanctum is a great annual and perennial mix that can handle less than ideal conditions. It is shade tolerant, handles low pH, and can handle wetter soils. Its a great forage inside a wooded area. Getting a soil test is also a great idea. Why spend all this money on seed and fertilizer if poor soil doesn't allow your forage to take up all the nutrients. Also another reason people fail is because they have poor soil and don't know it and blaming the seed in the end. Everyone should be getting their soil tested :O).
Dont know where your plots are but here in New England I tested a new cleared wood area and the ph was 5.0. Even with fast acting lime spread at the same time as the seed I didn't have any clover grow (lot cleared in summer and seed spread in September). Soil test highly recommended. Maybe something quicker and easy to grow while amendments work through soil